The Stoic Challenges Continue

When we last left you we were waiting in Comox for our new outboard engine.

While waiting for engine installation we explored the quaint town of Comox by the Sea. Like all fantastic stops in the Salish Sea it has a great bakery with fresh baked sourdough bread, adorable shops, gelato, and a few good restaurants.

Dan delivered our tender with its new outboard installed at the end of the day, only 30 hours after we first contacted him, a true boat repair miracle! We did a bit of testing and it worked beautifully, much smoother and quieter than our reliable but 23 year old Honda outboard. It starts easily and is more powerful although our Honda was also rated at 40 HP. Unfortunately, the mechanic who did the install also, for reasons unknown and without asking us, disconnected and/or removed some of the old electrical wiring, including a conveniently located battery on/off switch that also powered the bilge pump and the chart plotter. None of us understood that choice, especially without calling to ask us about it. But, Dan came to the rescue and got the chart plotter working. We will need to go back to Comox to fix the bilge pump and reinstall the more convenient battery on/off switch before we head home.

Given our need to meet up with friends in two days, we decided to leave even though it was late for crossing the Strait of Georgia. The weather seemed good, we had overcome our outboard engine stoic challenge and we had moorage reserved at the Beach Garden Marina in Powell River waiting for us just two hours away. So we left Comox at 6:30 PM, with the idea that two hours later we would arrive and be tied up to the dock at 8:30 PM. Although that is later than we like, it was still doable given that sunset is around 9:20 PM up here at 50 degrees north latitude. So optimistically, we headed out to cross the Strait of Georgia. A cascade of Stoic Challenges followed.

“ No Man is more unhappy than he who never faces adversity. For he is not permitted to prove himself [or herself].”

Seneca

Let the Stoic Challenges Begin

Stoic challenge #1: The winds really kicked up. The waves were bigger than we like, the wind was blowing spray and it was definitely a bit uncomfortable. But, the stabilizers did their job and it was doable. We did have a bumper blow off in a big wave. But we were able to use it as a “man-overboard” drill and retrieved it really quite quickly. Patting each other on the back we continued on.

After crossing the Strait of Georgia, we rounded Texada Island but then the SE wind really kicked up. We were getting concerned that we would have trouble docking in the narrow confines of the little Garden Bay Marina, especially when it isn’t low tide. But, we were hopeful because it wasn’t yet high tide. Although, we were beginning to think that leaving Comox at 6:30 PM probably wasn’t a good idea.

Stoic Challenge #2: As we approached the marina we were pleased to see the marina’s break water blocking some of the wind at the dock, unfortunately there was a small sail boat right in the middle of our lovely 60 foot space. No one was working the dock at 8:45 PM and there was no place for us to land at the marina to tell the little sailboat to get out of our slip, and in any case we were far better equipped to deal with high winds and waves than the little sail boat that must have thanked their lucky stars to have found such a large dock space, at the end of the dock, late in the day, as a refuge from the high winds and waves.

So we continued south, past the marina, to the closest safe anchorage about an hour away in Thunder Bay. We hoped it would be out of the wind and doable. Clearly, we were getting tired and it was getting dark. And clearly leaving Comox so late was a bad idea. The wind, sea spray and dusk made it a challenge. But we have the protected lower helm, good windshield wipers and we worked together to watch for logs among the waves as we headed south.

We finally approached the turn into Jervis Inlet and hoped the wind and waves would calm down after we rounded Scotch Fir Point. They did! Only 30 minutes later we were in the calm waters of Thunder Bay. We dropped the anchor easily in relatively shallow water, showered and collapsed into bed looking forward to a good night’s sleep.

Stoic Challange #3: Bzzzzzzzz. . . A mosquito. Unfortunately, a mosquito was in the bedroom buzzing around our head. The Captain was so tired he said forget it. He would just let it eat him. I couldn’t let that happen. So we turned on the light. Attracted the sucker to a convenient location and fried it with our trusty hand-held, battery-powered bug zapper. That happened one more time before we collapsed into a deep, long sleep.

The next day we had planned a brief cruise to the nearby Harmony Islands. But the Captain wanted to explore other possible anchorages in the inlet first. The First Mate was looking forward to a shorter adventure. We looked at many little gunk holes for a possible place to anchor. The Captain was sure we would find something. But, it wasn’t to be, so we headed back to the Harmony Islands. The Harmony Islands are beautiful, but funky. You have to anchor in the middle of a narrow channel or shore tie.

Stoic Challenge #4: Another crappy shore tie. After much exploring we decided to shore tie in a really difficult spot with wind and current. It wasn’t pretty. It was hot. It took forever. We were not feeling the Harmony in Harmony Islands. I graded our performance a D+ which was better than the last shore tie of a D. The Captain gave us a C-. I felt that was grade inflation. After it was over we took the tender with our new lovely outboard out to explore where we could of anchored more easily. And I think we have learned where we could anchor in the channel like a few other boats without a shore tie. The Captain is always, in the first mate’s opinion, overly concerned with running aground. Clearly a valid concern, but taken too far it is annoying and overly limiting . Once again we ate and went to sleep exhausted, but we knew we would be able to easily cruise to the nearby Backeddy Marina at Egmont, where we had reserved dock space to meet up with our friends Ken and Maria the next evening. So all and all we had overcome a lot and we were going to be on time to get our friends and head in PLI for more bliss time.

Stoic Challenge #5: Yes, another stoic challenge. They say if life is too easy you won’t be ready for the serious stoic challenges that are inevitable in life. You’ll get soft and not be ready for the really big challenges when they come along. That’s certainly not going to happen to us! After waking up on Sunday morning in the Harmony Islands, we turned on the generator to charge the battery like we do every morning. That’s when the Stoic Challenge #5 began. The day before on our way to Harmony Islands the generator stalled out after running 90 minutes, which was highly unusual. But we were making water at the time, and the batteries were fully charged so we didn’t really think much about it. Our generator is regularly serviced and like our reliable Honda outboard has never before given us any trouble. Until this trip. Earlier in the trip the generator’s starter battery had died, but we just bought another one in Comox. Unfortunately, this time there was no easy fix for our generator problem.

I called Irvin at Gallery Marine for a consult. Again, we are so lucky to have people who care about us and will help in these situations. He thought we might have gotten some dirty fuel so I would have to change the fuel filters. As the ship’s engineer, or in any time in my 62 years, I’ve never done this before. Irvin asked us if we had extra filters. I knew we did, which surprised the Captain. I had made sure we had extras of everything we needed and they were organized in special containers. Irvin walked us through how to do it and we successfully changed the main fuel filter. Unfortunately, it did not correct the problem. We decided to start the engines, remove the shore tie and head to Egmont before changing the smaller fuel filter on the generator itself when we got to the dock. That also did not correct the problem. But I do now know how to change fuel filters!

Stoic Challenge #6: Finding a capable boat mechanic in the summer, in a small town, that has any available time, on a Sunday afternoon, is exceptionally rare: much rarer than seeing Orcas. But that was what we needed to “bleed” the fuel line in the generator to get out any air bubbles that might be impeding the fuel flow. I watched a YouTube video and knew that I could not do that without on-site help. I asked Danny, the Backeddy’s dock manager, and he said “yes” he knew someone local who was a great mechanic and who could help. He texted Mike and Mike told Danny that he could be there to take a look at the problem later Sunday afternoon!

So despite the many stoic challenges we faced, we were also being blessed by another boating miracle. We thought there was no chance we could find anyone that quickly. So we waited for Mike the mechanic to finish his 3 other Sunday projects and come to our dock.

Mike arrived, with his son Max about the same time Ken and Maria arrived at Egmont. Ken & Marie had a reservation for one night at one of the Backeddy’s little motel rooms, but they went to the Backeddy pub for dinner while we worked with Mike to diagnose the generator and hopefully fix it so that we could cruise into Princess Louisa Inlet with the flood tide on Monday morning.

Honestly, you never know the quality of the mechanic you are going to get in these situations. We’ve been very disappointed in the past. But Mike was amazing! He is a calm, thoughtful, intelligent and a remarkably capable and creative mechanic. He’s patient and a good teacher. I knew almost immediately that he would solve our problem.

Mike and I worked in the engine room together. We tried to “bleed the lines” by jump starting the fuel pump. Apparently the fuel filter turns on when the circuit board detects oil pressure. It is like what comes first, “the chicken or the egg” thing. But you can also jump start a fuel pump by connecting it directly to a 12 volt battery. Mike asked if we had electrical wire, ✔️ hay wire & duct tape ✔️, and we had a portable battery for jump starting (The Captain bought it just in case the tender battery died). We were glad to have it because it came in handy earlier in the trip when the generator’s dedicated battery died and it came in handy again to jump start the fuel pump on the generator itself. So in awe, I watched Mike create a jumper system for the little fuel pump “McGiver” style. I love the MacGyver TV show and so does Mike. In fact, his business is named “Mikegyver Mechanic”. We attached all the wires, added power and . . . Nothing. The fuel pump was clearly dead. As Miracle Max says in Princess Bride: “There’s a big difference between mostly dead and completely dead. Mostly dead is slightly alive. With completely dead, well, there is [nothing] you can do . . .” I quoted it and Mike, my brother from another mother, knew it was from Princess Bride. So we both knew we needed to get a new fuel pump and get it installed before the generator would work again.

Clearly, we were not going to leave the dock Monday morning. But Mike found a fuel pump that could be delivered by 9AM on Tuesday morning to an auto/marine parts store in Gibsons, which is about 90 minutes away by car. Fortunately, Ken & Maria have a car!

So, on Monday morning Ken and Maria moved their stuff to our boat on the dock and we hung around ate and drank, explored the nearby Skookumchuck tidal rapids with the tender and generally had a chill day hoping that the part would actually show up the next morning. The plan was for Ken and Jim to drive to get it first thing in the morning, then bring it back for Mike to install in the early afternoon. If everything went well, we could still cruise to Princess Louisa Inlet on Tuesday as long we left the dock at Egmont before 4 PM. While the boys were on their road trip to Gibsons, Maria and I enjoyed a nice walk along the rural roads of Egmont, did some laundry and waiting for news of the fuel pump.

Oh and we ran into the Peach Pie and her crew Sydney and Chris again. And yes that is stoic challenge mechanic hair on my head.

But first we must digress into our delicious meals. Ken is quite the chef and had purchased in Whistler (where he and Maria were before driving to Egmont) and along the way from there to Egmont, all sorts of amazing culinary supplies so that he could prepare 3 exquisite meals for their 3 day visit to the True Love. While at Whistler Ken and Maria had purchased and pre-souvied meats for the trip. Yes, Ken travels with his sou ve machine. Although we were still tied up to the dock at the Backeddy on our first night together we ate yummy salmon, garlic-cheese mashed potatoes and salad. It was an honor acting as Ken’s sous chef.

At 9:05 AM Monday the text came from Jim that the he had the replacement fuel pump in his hand and that Mike would meet us at the boat around noon. Hip Hip Hooray!

Maria also found and purchased the most amazing sourdough bread from “Ed’s Bred” in Whistler. We thought we had way too much bread, but it took only 24 hours for us to eat the loaf. It‘s a must stop if you are in Whistler. We even had a moment of silence when we ate the last piece.

Now we were on the clock again. To get into PLI, you have to transit the Malibu Rapids when they are close to slack tide, and that meant we had to leave the dock at Egmont no later than 4PM on Tuesday.

Mike arrived a little after noon and I joined him in the engine room again to watch, assist and learn how to install a fuel pump on the generator. I took lots of video and photos. But, it was complicated. I’m not sure I could do it even now. But Mike is a real pro. After it was installed we tested it by jumping it, this time using the mini jumper cables that come with the part and voila! It came to life! Fantastic. With the pump humming along we were able to bleed the fuel lines of air and then gave the generator another try. And ….. nothing! The generator would still not start no mater how long we cranked it. Now what?

But “MacGyver” Mike wouldn’t give up. We called Irvin back in Seattle and brainstormed what could be causing the problem. After much discussion and analyzing we decided something wasn’t telling the oil pump to turn on the fuel pump. Apparently there is a circuit board on the generator that is supposed to do that. Irvin, who is no spring chicken, had never seen a circuit board go bad in a generator during his entire career as a boat mechanic. But there is a first time for everything. And everyone realized that there is no way we were ever going to get another circuit board in time to go to Princess Louisa on Tuesday or Wednesday, and Ken & Maria had to be back from PLI on Thursday to drive back to Vancouver and catch their Friday morning flight back to Southern California. So Mike and Irvine discussed creating a manual bypass switch. We had about 45 minutes left.

Mike went to his truck to look for a “MacGyver” bypass switch. He returned with wire and an old switch from a Winnebago. He quickly attached the switch to the proper place near the circuit board. Then Mike used the special jumper cable to connect it to the fuel filter. The moment of truth arrived. Turn on the switch, then turn on the generator and . . . It worked! Beautifully! Hearing the lovely hum of our generator again was wonderful. We cheered, hugged, paid Mike gratefully for his amazing problem solving and left the dock at 3:45 PM, with just 15 minutes to spare.

Mike’s magic “MacGyver” switch!

After a beautiful cruise we traversed Malibu Rapids and entered PLI. As we reached the end of the 4-mile-long inlet surrounded by tall mountains and waterfalls we noticed that our usual anchorage spot was taken. Bummer! But one of the 4 mooring buoys was available. Great! It’s been quite a while since we have used a mooring buoy because in Washington State, the mooring buoy’s at marine parks are limited to boats less than 40 feet long (our boat is 57 feet long). But here at PLI, there are five buoys for boats up to 70 feet long. And the one open buoy was in the perfect location, close to one of the small waterfalls and with a clear view of the big waterfall at the head of the inlet (Chatterbox Falls). I quickly deployed the paddle board so that I could thread the bow line through the buoy and hand it back to to tie off. Given how tired I was, it was another blessing in disguise that we didn’t have to shore tie, which would have taken at least another 30 minutes.

Chatterbox falls is in it’s summer dry season, but it is still quite powerful and chattering.

We made it! Let the bliss begin! Ken made us a delicious arugula salad and steak. The last 2 days we have enjoyed the inlet together floating, kayaking, and paddle boarding on the warm salt water (over 72 degrees at the surface!) and celebrating life with good wine, great food and interesting conversations. Ken’s third meal was roasted lamb with warm spinach salad and red potatoes. Ken & Maria left yesterday on the fast tour boat that takes tourists to and from PLI each day. They will now fly back home while we will spend the next few days here at PLI before heading out again for more adventures.

It’s a little cumbersome to turn the generator on and off now because we have to climb down into the engine room and manually turn on and off the fuel pump and the main switch at the same time. But it’s purring again now whenever we ask it to recharge the batteries or power the watermaker. Hopefully, we are done with our stoic challenges for awhile, but you can be sure that if we are faced with a new challenge that we will overcome it, sometimes by ourselves and sometimes with a little help from our friends Mike, Irvin and Dan!

Let the Adventure Continue . . .

The Captain and the First Mate of the True Love

Dent Bliss, Jet Boat Thrill & Then The Stoic Challenges

We really have had a lovely week. As expected Dent Island filled us with great food, loving care, a jet boat thrill ride and tranquility. We’ve never taken the jet boat ride before. But his year the “Super Moon”tides were creating some super big tidal rapids nearby and Trish told us there were surprisingly a couple of spaces still available. Oh my what a thrill! Riding on the flat bottom jet boat is the only safe way to experience the powerful, bubbling tidal rapids that surround Dent Island. As intelligent boaters, we work hard to schedule our arrival at Dent at “slack” tide to avoid being caught in even mild rapids. But the jet boat can go out even when the rapids are at peak tide! It also is a perfect time to get up close to the eagles as they swarm and dive to catch the hake fish that get stunned by the churning water and then rise to the surface where they are scooped up like eagle potato chips. We’ve only seen this once before in the area when our California friends Greg and Carolyn were visiting for a few days.

Devil’s Hole in Dent Rapids can get so big in the perfect conditions that you can’t see the bottom. This was plenty big for us!
Arryn Rapids are the most dangerous and the current is strong a long time. But it was no problem for the jet boat and Justin’s amazing skills.

We left Dent yesterday. Because of the continued strong NW winds we headed south to a lovely new anchorage (for us), Walsh Cove. It’s one of the beautiful Desolation Sound Marine Parks and offers stern tie chains to make it easier to anchor in the deep but protected waters there.

The spot was recommended to us at Dent by John and Nancy of the “Sea Esta” and it didn’t disappoint. Unfortunately, we were a mess with our shore tie procedure. My tender technique didn’t improve. The Captains advice wasn’t helpful. The extreme low tide made climbing up to the chain a bit challenging. I saw a snake cross my path as I was climbing! The stress bloomed exponentially. Eventually, after exerting way too much effort and making many mistakes we anchored with a good shore tie. We were both exhausted however and separated with very little speaking. I went for a cool down float in the 72 degree warm water. The Captain went up to relax in the sunshine on the top deck. Neither of us were ready to discuss our crappy performances, individually or as a team, until much later.

But that wasn’t the biggest “stoic challenge” of the day. Lounging on the pizza floatie, I looked over at the tender and noticed a strange crack on the lower shaft of the 40 HP outboard engine, right next to where the propeller was. It looked wrong. I took pictures and texted our support team back in Seattle. Alex responded immediately that it was a very big deal and we really shouldn’t use the engine anymore! Oh no!

We have no idea how it happened. It looked like there was quite the impact that took a chunk out of the bottom of the outboard and cracked it, exposing key components to sea water and releasing the oil that fills the lower engine shaft and lubricates the drive train that transmits the power of the engine to the propeller. The only thing we could think of was that it happened when we returned from an amazing dinner with our friends at the Laughing Oyster back to a spectacular anchorage in Isabella Bay off of Oakover Inlet. The strong NW winds were against us and the water was quite rough. We do remember hearing a big thunk and slamming down a bit, but we thought is was just a big wave. Maybe it was something else? Who knows?

After a “calm before the storm” lovely dinner we showered and I knew in the morning I was going to have to wake up and get busy finding a replacement outboard engine ASAP. There is no way we could get a part and have it replaced anytime soon, and at 20 years old, the salt-water-cooled outboard engine was reaching the end of its useful life anyway.

As soon as I woke up, I checked my email and Irvin, another of our other lifeline boat service guru in Seattle concurred with Alex and repeated twice in his email: DO NOT DRIVE THE TENDER. We then called Jim’s brother Doug, our third expert, to get advice about which brand would be the best replacement (assuming we had a choice).

Our outboard is 20 years old and we were thinking of replacing it next year. Time to move up that timetable! Because we have our trusty Starlink Satelite now I could actually make calls and use the internet even though there was no cellular service at Walsh Cove.

The Captain/Barista made my latte and I went to work on the internet and phone. After about an hour and a half we had three possible choices. Now we had to wait for quotes and verification that the service people had time on Friday to install a new outboard motor assuming we could find one in stock somewhere nearby.

So instead of a glorious day kayaking and blissing out we untied the beautiful shore tie, lifted anchor and headed out. I kept of my communication with my three options: Egmont – the easiest best choice for our next scheduled rendezvous with friends; Comox – second easiest only 5 hours out of our way; and a deep back up in Nanaimo (10 hours away) for mid July. In the end, Comox had a 40 HP Yamaha engine and they said they could install it tomorrow!

Cruising around Desolation area there are lots of humpbacks. We love seeing them and feel that they join us on our life travels as the migrate from Hawaii to the Salish Sea. We also saw humpbacks in the distance as we head to Comox. We took it as a positive sign. That “every little thing is gonna be alright”!

Next challenge, navigating into Comox at an extreme low tide. We are completely unfamiliar with the area and of course we didn’t have the highly recommended chart suggested in the Waggoner guide. Luckily, it wasn’t very windy so navigating the drying shoal was pretty easy. But, there wasn’t room at the dock unless we “rafted” onto another boat. We have never rafted in 14 years of boating. The idea of tying up to another boat and walking over it to get to the dock is extremely unappealing. But we did it with the help of the lovely young women, Teagan, at the marina. We were stressed, but she was chill and very skilled. She couldn’t believe we had never rafted before. Oh well. By the time all this was over, exhaustion set in and I was “good for nothing”, as the saying goes. We could have dropped the kayaks and enjoyed the area and the low tide, but I just couldn’t rally.

Tomorrow morning we will meet Dan from Parker Marine at the nearby boat launch at 7:30 AM where he will bring his trailer to scoop up the True Love Tender, take it over to his shop and install the new 200 pound, 40 HP outboard. If all goes as planned (🤞🏽) we will grab breakfast, reprovision our food supplies and the tender and its new outboard engine will be ready so we can leave the dock sometime in the afternoon. Then we will cross back over the Strait of Georgia and return to the Garden Bay Marina in the Powell River area where we will be perfectly positioned to head back to Egmont and meet up with our friends Ken and Maria Kribel on Sunday night so that on Monday morning, we can ride the flood back into PLI for our second sojourn there of the summer. Wish us luck!

Time for bed.

The Captain and the First Mate of the True Love!

Update: The tender handoff went off without a hitch this morning. Outboard installation is underway. Looks hopeful. We walked around the town of Comox and did some reprovisioning. Also, turns out our dock hand, Tegan, is only 14. She wanted to work with the marina and kept bringing her resume in so they finally agreed to hire her. We told them she is a keeper. They of course agree.

Sustainable Bliss vs Dramatic Adventure

The theme of this year’s cruising True Love Adventure is more “sustainable bliss” vs dramatic adventure. To be clear cruising on the Salish Sea always has a bit of adventure. Navigating the needed upkeep and repairs to our 20 year old boat and navigating the weather, currents and tides always creates a sense of adventure. But we have decided that, this year, whenever possible, to take it slow and not push it. So far so good!

We left Seattle on Fathers Day in the afternoon, after joining in on an alumni zoom gathering of our “Awake and Alive” living with cancer group. It’s always so amazing to share survival and care stories with people who have a shared perspective on life and healing. After that, we left our home marina in Seattle and cruised north, stopping first at Langley, on the SE side of Whidbey Island. The weather was gloomy, but the winds were calm and we were able to stay just ahead of the big squalls that you can see on our chart plotter. We docked easily and the Lady Washington pulled in behind us. What a beautiful old sailing ship!

Langley is home to some very special friends and frankly we don’t visit often enough. It is where we did our first “Awake and Alive Living with Cancer” retreat in 2015 and home to “Healing Circles” where people dealing with serious illness and life challenges gather regularly to help each other. This trip we were able to meet up with so many special friends. First, we had a yummy dinner with Erica. She picked us up at the dock, drove us to her home, cooked us dinner where we shared the most important things happening in our lives and the wonderful views of her farm.

Heading back to the boat we noticed the Peach Pie, owned by our friends Sydney and Christopher Gorrell, who we met recently in Hawaii. They just happened to stop there for the night on a cruise from Edmonds to Anacortes. It’s a small world!

The next morning we were picked up again by our friends Carol and Laired Vanetta for breakfast before we were delivered into Langley where we walked around before connecting with our other dear friend Diana Lindsey. Clearly we have to go back to Langley more often!

From Langley we headed north again to Oak Harbor to buy some of the lowest priced diesel in WA. Seven years ago we payed $1.47/gallon. This year the price was $4.20/gallon and we considered ourselves lucky. We always fill the tank before heading to Canada where diesel is 25% more, even after the discount for paying with Canadian dollars. Fully refueled, we traveled north again through Deception Pass at the north tip of Whidbey Island, on our way to a cozy overnight anchorage in Hunters Bay on the SE corner of Lopez Island, one of the San Juan Islands, the northern most islands in Washington State.

In past years we would have pushed ourselves to go all the way from the San Juans to Nanaimo in one long day so we could dash from there farther north to Egmont and then the next day into Princess Louisa Inlet (PLI), our all-time favorite anchorage in the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia. But applying our “sustainable bliss” decision rule we chose instead to cruise only a few hours the next day to Cabbage Island, just across the US-Canada border and our favorite anchorage in this area. If the winds are calm or from the south this a perfect first stop in Canadian waters. We were a bit concerned because the weather report talked about strong northwest winds overnight “near” Vancouver Island. As is often the case with Canadian marine forecasts, that is not very clear. What does “near” mean in Canadian weather speak? Who knows? We decided to take a look and see what the winds were like. We could always move further on if we needed to.

Clearly, and thankfully, Cabbage Island was not “near”enough. The winds were perfectly calm that evening, all night, and the next day, and because it is relatively early in the season there was room for us to anchor and enjoy kayaking, paddle boarding two beautiful sunsets.

Jim is a a 45 year cancer survivor, which is a miracle. Over the past 11 years we’ve been dealing with the downstream health issues from the radiation including his near-fatal heart attack in 2012 and other newer issues like muscle wasting. It’s a bit of a mystery but, we are adapters and experiential learners. The solution for us has been sustainable bliss, mindfulness, Qi Gong and working harder on strength and flexibility. To that end, we added regular yoga to our lives so he can continue to do things like get into the kayak, and it paid off. Jim got into and out of his kayak, without a problem. As Dori says, “just keep swimming!”

Again applying our sustainable bliss principle we stayed a second night. There were so many eagles around we had a blast kayaking and listening to them communicate. A couple of them flew through the forest like Star Wars flying speeder bikes.

Both nights we were treated to spectacular sunsets.

You can hear the Eagles’ wings as they fly over us!

One of my goals from this year was to be in Ganges on Salt Spring Island on Friday night so we could go to the Farmers Market on Saturday morning and buy some of the magical sourdough rye bread that is sold there. Another draw is Moby’s Pub where they sell duck wings rather than chicken wings. From Cabbage Island we had an easy 2 hour cruise to Salt Spring Island and we docked on Friday afternoon with time to dine on duck wings, ribs and homemade pie (with left overs), listen to a lovely musician and get some laundry done. Perfect!

The next morning I got the Captain up early so we could secure our bread before it sold out at the Salt Spring Farmers Market. The utterly charming collection of playful booths full of food, fresh donoughts, organic veggies, hippy charms, art and of course bread make it a must visit.

The luthier (Terry) who made my favorite Ukulele has a booth there and I needed him to look at a small crack that I had recently discovered in my Uke. Unfortunately, someone had knocked into it at the mountains and although it doesn’t affect the sound, I would like it repaired. He connected me with “Rick”, Terry’s gifted string instrument repair person. Rick is in Victoria (the southern tip of Vancouver Island and the capital of British Columbia) so we hope to meet up with him there on our cruise south at the end of Summer.

We planned to spend two nights at the dock at Salt Spring, but those predicted winds were howling, but from the south right into us knocking us into the dock for a noisy and rocky stay. Looking at another night of creaking and rocking the Captain suggested we leave at 6 and head to nearby Montague Harbour where we could have a quieter night.

I was concerned that leaving late in the day after a really full day of walking twice into town pushed the limits on our “sustainable bliss” goal. But persistent southerly winds and waves were making our time at the dock in Ganges really uncomfortable, and as the Captain pointed out, Montague Habour was only about an hour away and a place where we have anchored many times. So despite my concerns, we left Ganges and cruised over to Montague.

The Captain’s intuition was correct (this time). It didn’t take long on our journey from Salt Spring to Montague to escape the winds and waves. And we got to enjoy another fabulous sunset in calm waters!

From Montague it was an easy cruise the next day to Nanaimo, another of our favorite stops and a perfect place to prepare for the sometimes difficult crossing of the Strait of Georgia to get to the mainland side of where our favorite fjords (like Princess Louisa Inlet) are located. But before we left I used one of my new favorite power tools to blow up the bumpers. The cruise from Montague to Nanaimo was gorgeous, sunny and calm.

We connected with Hawaii friends, Marylin and Don Harvey, who recently moved to a community just north of Naniamo. They drove to us and stopped by for a quick visit on the True Love. Then they joined us for a yummy dinner at one of our favorite restaurants Astera Taverna (which specializes in Greek food).

In nice weather crossing the Strait of Georgia from Nanaimo east to the mainland is easy. In winds it can be brutal. It’s where we had one of our scariest adventures, involving storms and smoke and it inspired Episode 2 of the Curve of Time Podcast. The blog post is in some old software I can’t locate. This year the forecast looked good and the crossing was easy. Four hours later we were docked at the Back Eddy Marina in Egmont where we had a nice meal on the deck and watched a beautiful sunset. Next stop Princess Louisa. But first the Orcas.

We woke up to a lazy morning and as we were enjoying our yogurt parfaits the Captain spotted the first orcas of the day. It was one of the biggest Orcas we’ve ever seen. Then we saw them again so we we decided to quickly leave the dock and get closer.

Not the best photo but this was a VERY big Orca.
In this photo you can see the many seals hiding among the rocks from the giant orcas nearby.

As we made are way down Jervis Inlet toward PLI we encountered a second pair of Orcas. The orca escort continued until we had to journey on to make it easily to the tidal rapid entrance to PLI at slack tide.

Sunny, warm and calm, the journey up Jervis Inlet was perfect and we listened to music and danced along.

And the entrance to the inlet through Malibu Rapids was the calmest we’ve ever seen it, so we timed it perfectly! Once in PLI we made our way to our favorite anchorage with its two “private” waterfalls.

In past years, the Captain would do the shore tie with the tender while I stayed with the boat. This year we thought it would be best if I climbed the shore and the Captain stayed on board. The only problem is that I’m not as good at maneuvering the tender. But with a little trial and error, I figured it out. Going forward onto shore was pretty easy, but backing out in the correct direction created a little more challenge. I know if was tough for the Captain to watch me as I figured it out. But we succeeded.

The gloriously sunny weather continues, the water is a warm 71 degrees and I quickly deployed the blow up pizza and paddle board so we could float and cool off. In late June the days are long. And the best way to cool off in the afternoon heat is in the water. Floating on the water, in the sun, and listening to the waterfalls is truly heaven and is in perfect harmony with our goal of Sustainable Bliss.

Princess Louisa continues to amaze and inspire us. The mountains, the calm water, the remoteness and the magical anchorage just doesn’t get old or boring. We will travel into to PLI 3 times this summer, sharing our favorite place with friends and family.

When we woke up yesterday, the captain checked the weather forecast for the next few days. We now have connectivity through our Starlink Satellite. Although installation wasn’t as smooth as we expected – go figure — it is nice to have the safety net of internet onboard. We were a little worried that we wouldn’t be able to control our “screen time” but it wasn’t a problem at all. And it does let us spend a little time clearing out all the junk daily instead of coming out of an isolated area to 500+ emails and messages.

Anyway, we checked the weather and it predicted a strong Northwest wind Friday and Saturday. This update would make it difficult to make our next destination: Dent Island on July 3rd. Although we planned another night in PLI, we decided to muster after breakfast and clean up our floaty toys to head out a day early. And I’m sure glad we did. It’s sunny, but the wind has arrived. We are now safely docked at the Garden Bay Marina in Powell River. And we have the extra blessing of connecting with other Canadian friends we met in Hawaii who are going to fly down on their private plane from Revelstoke to connect. As Paul Simon wrote: “We live in an age of miracles and wonders.”

Powell River is a major town (15,000+ residents) so my next project is to go to Staples and print a bunch of of my Curve of Time Podcast posters to hand out at a few key marinas and resorts. I’ll let you know how that turned out in my next blog.

Curve of Time Podcast is Published

Dear readers,

The first two episodes of the Curve of Time Podcast are up and streaming on Apple, Spotify and Amazon. We are so excited to share it with you. Episode 3 should be up later today! https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/curve-of-time-podcast/id1633329225?i=1000569067545

Yesterday, we were in the recording studio working on episodes 5-7 with our amazing cast. Here’s some fun video.

6:30PM Tuesday, June 26 is the Rainier Club Curve of Time Podcast Dinner: For our Seattle area followers the Rainier Club downtown is doing a special dinner where we’ll give a presentation on the making of the podcast. Just call the Rainier Club at 206-296-6870 and let them know that you want to attend at your own expense (the cost is $64 per person) and that we are your “sponsoring member.” We would love to have a big group! Reservations close this Friday so don’t wait until next week to decide. You can’t pay directly, but you can just pay us later. Reasonably priced parking is available at the Rainier Club or you can park on the street or take the Light Rail to the Pioneer Square Station and then walk about the hill to Columbia and 4th Avenue.

A fun bear scene!

Here is the Rainier Club’s summary of the 7/26/22 event:

“Literary Happy Hour” is so excited to feature beloved RC members, Fawn and Jim Spady. Their remarkable story will be presented during dinner which will feature an exquisite menu hand-crafted and prepared by our talented Chef Jim.

Join us to hear about the making of their podcast, The Curve of Time! The podcast is centered around The Wells family who have always wanted to adventure north to the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia. Clint, Katherine, Tanner, Ella and Dexter embark on a journey north on their boat the True Love. This family story is based on the True Love Adventures of Jim and Fawn Spady and inspired by Wylie “Capi” Blanchet and her remarkable journeys 100 years earlier.

The Wells family are also musicians and play music along their adventure. Enjoy the music and the adventure as they travel from Port Townsend to Nanaimo, Egmont, Princess Louisa Inlet, Desolation Sound and Bute Inlet. Find out more on their blog trueloveadventures.com/

Join Us for the Adventure! Hop on Board! Make your reservation by calling the Front Desk or register on the RC Web Calendar.

Menu

Herb Seared Pacific Ling Cod
roasted fingerling potatoes, summer succotash, tomato basil coulis
Vanilla Buttermilk Panna Cotta
fresh summer berries
Chateau St. Michelle
Two Glasses

$64.00++ per guest

Online reservations typically close three business days prior to the event date. Please contact the ReservationsDepartment to check an event’s availability if online reservations are closed, 206.296.6870. Event cancellations made after 72 business hours prior to the event date, may be charged the event fee.

Happy 4th of July, & Octopus Islands

After leaving Powell River and a quick stop at Nancy’s Bakery in Lund, we headed to Desolation Sound’s Oakover Inlet for the night. The Captain made a reservation at the Laughing Oyster restaurant. We enjoyed a lovely dinner with another spectacular view and saw some great patterns in the water.

We woke up late Friday July 1 unsure of where we would end up for Canada day. Given the mediocre, early season weather and extremely expensive fuel prices, the popular anchorages in Desolation were unusually empty and that was tempting. However, Octopus Islands farther north whispered an invitation to us and so that’s where we went. Perfect kayaking weather was forecast for Saturday, with warm sun and calm winds, so our usual gunk hole anchorage on the south side of Octopus Islands felt like a perfect choice.

On our way to Octopus we stopped in Calm Channel to wait for the slack current at the “Hole In The Wall” tidal rapids that connect Calm Channel and the Octopus Islands. The area north of Desolation Sound is full of tidal rapids. They are short, two-way, salt-water rivers that flow around many of the islands here. During big food or ebb tides, they can be very turbulent and dangerous, with powerful whirlpools and strong sideways currents that push your boat around and hide logs and other debris that can damage your propellers or rudders. But at the moment when a flood tide switches to an ebb tide, the tidal rapids are completely calm and easily navigable for the hour before or after. While we waited the Captain used the temporarily available cell service while the First Mate did some yoga in the sun on the bow. Calm Channel near the Rendezvous Islands is also usually a good spot to see humpbacks and orcas, but we had no luck this time. The slack current at Hole In The Wall wasn’t until 7:30PM so it was past 8 before we were anchored and settled, but with the late summer light at 50 degrees north latitude, sunset wasn’t until 9:30PM so anchoring late in the day was no problem.

It’s been three years since we were at Octopus and with the light NW winds, our gunk hole anchorage outside of the main bay gave us a beautiful view and relative isolation from the other boaters anchored there.

Both of us woke up around 1:30 AM and headed up to the top deck to look at the stars. The sky is expansive here and we were treated to a perfect view. I even saw a shooting star! But it was still remarkably light for a moonless night. The sun sets in the NW and rises less than 8 hours later in the NE, adding in an hour of twilight and pre-sunrise dawn, the skies don’t get completely dark, even without a moon at 2 AM

On Saturday, the warm sun shinned brightly as predicted and we kayaked enjoying all the calm waters around Octopus Island Provincial Park. There were lots of families around and I had the opportunity to share the “big news” about the soon-to-be-published Curve Podcast. In the afternoon we took the tender out to find some cell service and explore one of the other tidal rapids near our anchorage.

Weasels fish in the water.

Together, Surge Narrows and Whiterock Passage are another waterway that connects Calm Channel to Octopus Islands. The Captain navigated through Surge Narrows with no problem even though the current was very strong, skillfully using our tender’s 40 HP engine and GPS chart plotter. By contrast, Whiterock Passage has almost no current, but is very narrow and very shallow (less than 10 feet deep). For those boats that don’t have a GPS chart plotter, there is a “Range System” that uses onshore monuments to help navigate through the narrow, twisting channel. First you line up the “Range” with the bow and when you almost reach the shore, you make a turn and line the “Range” up with the stern. It’s very low tech but as long as it isn’t foggy, very effective. We are thinking of adding this area to one of the last episodes of the Curve podcast. We also saw eagles and a sea lion taking advantage of the fish who become disoriented when going through the rapids.

The downturn in the weather perfectly aligned with our next stop: two days at Dent Island. So we watched some Wimbledon on the Satellite TV and had a lazy morning before the quick cruise back through Hole In The Wall, then through the Yaculta Rapids next to Big Bay and on to the fabulous Dent Island Marina. We haven’t been here since 2018. They will be booked up every day through Labor Day beginning July 6, when all the usuals come up after July 4th festivities in the states. I can’t think of a better place to find refuge in a summer downpour. Usually our boat is put in between the big yachts wherever there is room. But today we got the premier space in the front of the outside dock next to the small “canoe” rapids that run next to the Lodge. It’s very special.

This area usually has lots of eagles, but we’ve never seen so many in the trees nearby. And as soon as we were docked we saw an eagle family catch and share a fish with their young eagles.

Then we hot tubbed, took a long shower and went into the new sauna with a view window. This is the area that I took my special dolphin photo in July 2019.

We enjoyed a yummy dinner and dessert before walking back to the boat in the rain. We are supposed to get an inch of rain in the next 24 hours. But we can hang out in the Lodge or in our boat, do some remote work, eat well, and just wait out the storm before heading out again tomorrow on the next leg of our adventure. Thanks for reading!

This blog is written by the First Mate and the Captain of the True Love.

2022: Big News!

Our cruising begins this year a little earlier than normal and given our non-existent La Niña spring we expected some rain. And that’s exactly what we got, with lots of cold, mixed weather as we headed North into Canada, to the islands and rugged coast of British Columbia.

Seal saying
goodbye at Elliott Bay

We left Elliot Bay Marina early Thursday, June 16th. With the True Love in “tip top” shape after a few spring test cruise issues, we confidently rode the big spring ebb tide north all the way to San Juan Island, anchoring just outside of Roche Harbor. After a long day, a successful anchor and a shower we encountered our first “Stoic Challenge”: our shower faucet failed and wouldn’t completely shut off. So less than a day into our voyage we were no longer in “tip top”shape.

Because boats have one big water system, even one small leak means the main water pump needs to be shut off when not absolutely necessary because the pump will burn itself out if it runs constantly. So the next day we ventured into Roche for a delicious breakfast and walk to the Philbrooks Marine Repair there. Philbrooks main facility is in Sydney in Canada but their satellite facility in Roche is also staffed with incredibly engaged and helpful people. Doug the manager scrounged through his extra washers to give us a new “O” ring to our old faucet cartridge. Ever hopeful, we headed back to the TL to test the “fix” to find . . . it did not work. So we called the Ace Hardware in Friday Harbor (the “big city” on San Juan Island) and they thought they might have a replacement cartridge that would work. So we tendered back to the Roche Marina, took a cab to Friday Harbour but did not find the proper cartridge there, either. Returning to the True Love we lifted anchor for the short cruise to Bedwell Harbour to clear Canadian Customs. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to just call in to customs from our boat, as we had done for years using our special “Nexus” cards. Instead, perhaps as some kind of weird remnant of old covid rules, we had to tie up to the dock at Bedwell and call in from there using our cell phone or a landline at the dock. We were on hold for 45 minutes, but then got through to an agent and were cleared to continue into Canada.

Originally, we planned to go to our usual “first stop” anchorage at Montague Harbour. But the first mate was feeling a bit tired after a long couple of weeks of work on an exciting new project (that’s the “Big News” at the end of this blog) and by the final cruise preparations and our first long day cruising and the shower faucet repair challenge. So we pivoted and headed to the little town of Ganges on Salt Spring Island.

The Captain was a bit wary of going to Ganges because many, many years ago we had stayed at the Salt Spring Marina there and it was a bit sketchy because they assigned us to a slip that was very close to a reef which we then grazed with our propellers while exiting, which was not a big deal except that the cavitation it caused in the propellers is expensive to repair. However, the Marina assured us that it was under new ownership and that the docks had been completely redone to prevent that from happening again. So we gave it a try and had a blast.

Ganges is known for its wonderful farmer’s market on Saturdays and it didn’t disappoint.

We were able to procure wonderful produce, artisan bread, pastries and other goodies.

But our amazing treasure was a handmade ukulele created by an unassuming but remarkable man and luthier, Terry Warbey. This Uke is made out of three different types of wood and it sounds like a harp. Learning to play the ukulele was my Covid project. I found a wonderful online instructor, Cynthia Lin, and played almost everyday. Luckily, the Captain loves to hear me play. In Hawaii, I would get up early and do my lessons. This year I joined hundreds of ukulele players online from around world for the “100 Days of Ukulele” challenge. My goal was to play everyday and post a video of a song when I felt up to it. I learned not to to be afraid of playing in front of other people and was enchanted by the fellowship and joy shared by musicians around the world. The range of talent covers the spectrum from true beginner to virtuoso. But everyone was so supportive! It truly exemplifies what is possible with the internet and facebook. With my expanded knowledge of instruments and music, I knew how special this ukulele was. And the Captain bought it for me to celebrate our 41st Wedding Anniversary! But, that isn’t the “Big News” either.

Back to the leaky faucet. On Ganges we met a young couple sitting next to us at dinner and we asked them where we might find parts for our repair. They recommend two places. The first was the hardware store. And unfortunately their faucet cartridges were also not the correct size. So we ventured out again to Windsor Plywoood which we were told also has plumbing supplies and there we met a Plumbing Oracle. He looked at our old cartridge and pointed out that it was missing a little washer at the end. He suggested that this little missing washer, by itself, could cause the slow leak that we were experiencing. We were overjoyed! Unfortunately, Windsor Plywood didn’t have any of the little washers, but the Plumbing Oracle said that we could probably use the little washer at the end of any other faucet cartridges if we couldn’t buy the little washer at the hardware store. So, we walked back to the hardware store in town and while they also did not have any of the little washers, we did purchase a faucet cartridge we knew wouldn’t fit so that we could move the little washer there to our broken cartridge. Back at the dock, before we had a chance to do the repair, we met and befriended an amazing couple who have just spent the last 2 years of covid working remotely from a powerboat they bought in Florida and then cruised through the Panama Canal and back up to Seattle. While their story is amazing (and we would love to share it in a future blog if its OK with them), it turns out that they had some extra supplies for their voyage including a little washer that looked about the right size. And it was about the right size. Just not the right size. So I took an imprint of the size we needed from the end of our cartridge and placed it on the slightly oversized washer. Then I carefully took a box cutter knife and carefully trimmed around the edge of the slightly-too-big little washer until it fit snuggly into place in our old cartridge. We then put the old cartridge back in our shower faucet and, drumroll please, the leak was gone! We gratefully sent positive waves of thanks to the Plumbing Oracle and celebrated with lots of high fives and great joy.

The next day, Sunday, we left Ganges and headed north for Nanaimo, passing through the currents of Dodd Narrows at slack tide. At Nanaimo we docked, did our final provisioning for our upcoming long stay in Princess Louisa Inlet and had a truly yummy dinner at our favorite greek restaurant, Astera Taverna. Jasmine knew we would be eating there for Fathers Day and had called ahead to buy our dinner and that made it extra special. Thank you Jasmine and David!

Monday morning we left Nanaimo on Vancouver Island just after sunrise to cruise north with the flood tide across the Strait of Georgia to Pender Harbour on the coast of the BC mainland to rendezvous with our dear friends Jayne and Warren Spector. Neither has retired yet so they have complicated schedules but this year everything came together so that they could fly by seaplane to Pender Harbour on Monday and then return to Seattle on Friday by seaplane from inside Princess Louisa Inlet. As we crossed the Strait of Georgia the auto pilot remote control that we use from the upper helm stopped working, but that is a little problem as boat problems go since its similar to the cruise control on a car, and the main auto pilot on the lower helm still worked. The remote control auto pilot is 8 years old so it’s not surprising that it stopped working but its just a little annoying when crossing a big body of water like the Strait of Georgia. But that’s boating!

Other than the problem with our remote auto pilot it was a super easy crossing of the Strait of George with light winds and calm seas so we arrived easily in time to pick up Jayne and Warren, even though their flight arrived 30 minutes early. It wasn’t sunny but they had decent weather for their flight up and the sun soon came out for the short cruise to Egmont, which is the last little marina before the 30 mile trip to Princess Louisa Inlet. At Egmont, we washed the salt off the boat and then shared a remarkable gourmet meal at the West Coast Wilderness Lodge, which is a short walk from the Back Eddy Resort. Now that covid is over, we can go back there and we highly recommend it. We’ve been to Egmont every year since 2009 (except for the covid years) and we’ve never seen Orcas there. But we did this year, during our gourmet dinner. Everyone having dinner there was oohing and ahhing as four orcas swam past, about 300 yards away. What a magical treat!

The next day (Tuesday) the weather wasn’t great (drizzle, changing to a steady rain that lasted all day) but we headed into PLI with the morning flood tide and hoped the next day’s weather would be better. There was a lot of debris in the water so all of us kept our eyes on the water to watch for logs and dead heads. It’s difficult to see when it’s grey and raining. But the crew was up to the challenge. Other than the debris, the cruise into PLI was easy with no waves and light wind. Unfortunately, Jayne and Warren didn’t get to see the spectacular mountains that line the inlet until they flew out on Friday, but they could see the lower part of the 20+ waterfalls of Princess Louisa at “full flow” because of all the rain. The weather forecast also called for improving weather so we were hopeful for the rest of their visit.

Because PLI is so deep, using a shore tie is required when anchoring to keep the boat from drifting off into the deep water. Shore tying was a bit of a challenge in the rain, which definitely increased to a downpour during the time the Captain and Warren took the tender to shore with the long rope that had to put around a tree. Once anchored and tied we took a breath and watched all the amazing waterfalls. When it rains like this PLI is filled with so many waterfalls. This time of year, with all the heavy snows the Pacific Northwest has had, the big waterfalls are already bigger. But in the rain, they are bigger still and there are so many more.

We spent our first day in PLI watching the clouds, the rain, and the waterfalls while playing bridge. I think Jayne and Warren were a bit worried about the weather for the rest of the trip, but we expected clearing the next day and we got it. Over the next few days we did all the PLI things: taking in the magical beauty, kayaking, paddle boarding, exploring inside and about a mile outside PLI by tender, walking to Chatterbox Falls, walking the forest trail near MacDonald Island, taking a tour of the remarkable Malibu Young Life Camp and enjoying great food and great company. On Friday about noon Jayne and Warren were picked up by the Seaplane for a spectacular clear and sunny low-altitude flight back to Seattle. For the next 5 days Jim and I will enjoy our PLI retreat together. The weather is spectacular again today (Saturday). Hopefully, we will get a lot more sunny days before we head out of PLI and then continue north to Powell River, Dent Island, the Octopus Islands, and the Blind Channel Resort. At that point, we plan to turn around and begin our cruise south back to Seattle.

We need to be back in Seattle in mid-July because of the Big News! I’ve finally started production on my “Curve of Time” inspired project with a multi-episode family adventure podcast. Collaborating with Saul’s company and the amazing Madeline Reddington we honed the scripts originally written by Richard Lasser into a sweet & funny family adventure. It’s inspired by Wylie Blanchet’s collection of short stories from the 1920’s and 1930’s that she published in her book, “The Curve of Time”. My vision was to create a new story about a modern family that was so inspired by these short stories that they decide to buy an old boat, fix it up and then take their boat up to some of the areas described in the Curve of Time; areas where Jim and I have cruised and loved during these past 12 years. They get into lots of the same adventures we have in the past. The podcast is geared to kids 6-12, but the whole family will enjoy it. The family in the story homeschools and the mother and three kids are a musical string quartet. We were lucky enough to get a truly amazing musician and composer to do those parts. We have a fine cast of actors, the “theme” music is composed by a remarkable local composer and beautifully edited and produced. I hope you listen to it, share it and like it on the podcast page when that goes live. To be among the first to listen, use this link to the podcast web site: CurvePodcast.com. The first two episodes will be up very soon. Please go to the web site and sign up and you will get a notice when the first episodes are published. The followers of the True Love Adventures blog are the first to get this invitation! I’m hoping you will prime the enthusiasm for the advertising and outreach campaign that will follow later this summer when we have at least 4 episodes completed and uploaded. In mid-July, when we return to Seattle, we will record and edit the last 5 episodes of season 1. We hope it will become a popular podcast that will generate enough interest for more seasons and perhaps someday a multi-part video series or movie! THANK YOU for being our first listeners!

The Captain and The First Mate of the True Love.

PLI Early Spring Nature

We’ve aren’t often here in PLI this early in the season. Robust waterfalls cascade all around us. As the day heats up Chatterbox falls goes from dramatic to full with the daily snow melt from the abundant snow on the mountain tops. We even had a little pile of snow at sea level near our anchorage! We’ve never seen that before.

The seagulls are nesting on Seagull Cliffs and the PLI pair of eagles are on their nest. We haven’t seen any baby seals yet. We are hoping we get to see a new born before we leave. With the last three days being the first really warm weather this year the trees released their pollen, which collects in swirling patterns on the surface of the water. Luckily neither of us is allergic to tree pollen!

Teaming with early spring life the seawater is quite dark. It’s still beautifully reflective but with a hunter green tint vs a reflective blue. So far we have seen very little bioluminescence (phosphorescence) in the algae although we did see a little glow at the bottom of a close waterfall on our second night. We’ve put up a hummingbird feeder and I just saw one fly by as I write this entry (joyful giggle).

The Eagle vs Seagull Battle: While Jayne and Warren were with us we explored in the tender and noticed a ruckus going on at Seagull Cliffs. It was something we had never seen before. The eagle was hunting for eggs in the seagull’s cliff-side nests. I was able to catch some good photos and Jim got a fun video. We also saw the strange sight of one of the eagles on the top of a tree near its nest and on the other branch very, very close was a small bird. I didn’t have my telephoto lens so we don’t have a picture. We have many theories though: the two birds are friends from a previous lifetime, the little bird is trading lookout duties for protection, or the little bird’s parents were too lazy to make their own nest so they laid their egg in the eagle’s nest, which was adopted by the eagles and is now one of the family (aka lazy mazy in the Horton Lays An Egg).

So Many Spectacular Waterfalls.

Curve of Time Podcast Customers All Around: The cutest family came by our anchorage to explore our waterfalls and pick salmon berries. I gave them one of my Curve of Time Podcast cards! If you haven’t signed up already please go to CurvePodcast.com. You’ll be among the first to know when the episodes are launched, hopefully by mid-July. Yesterday an old, small wooden powerboat came in that looks very similar to the “Caprice”, the family boat in the Curve of Time. We need to go check it out today before it leaves.

Longest Days of Summer: The days are so long now we can’t stay up late enough to see the stars. So we are going to sleep and if we wake up in the middle of the night we go up to the top deck to take a look. Last night wasn’t ideal (there is quite a bit of moisture in air). But it was pretty good. The Summer Triangle (Vega, Deneb and Altair) doesn’t rise fully over the mountains until 1 AM. But last night at 2 AM we saw it and the Milky Way, a few shooting stars and lots of satellites.

Another Glorious, Sunny, Warm Day: Sunday it was 80 degrees here! The First Mate did her exercises on the bow while the Captain did his amazing editing job on the blog. We went out on the tender to check out the eagles nest again to try to see some newly hatched eaglets. No eaglets yet, but we did see one of the pair strike the water with talons and grab a fish! We followed it in the tender and I was able to capture this spectacular photo (the eagle with a fish in his talons and a glaciers in the background!). After that we returned to the True Love and the first mate deployed the pizza-shaped floaty toy! Hopefully, we can float again tomorrow!

Contemplating Connectivity: We found out a few days ago from a fellow boater that Starlink’s RV system works perfectly here. But we cherish our 10 days “off the grid” every year. All we have now is a Garmin InReach which allows very brief texts for checking in. The Starlink system is certainly appealing for the boat, but if we do get it, our house rules will have to be to shut it off whenever we’re inside in PLI. Our quiet time here is so precious and special; we never want to lose that.

Our Last full day in PLI: Glorious sunshine greeted us this morning again. We definitely hit the weather jackpot for this time of year. Kayaking filled the glorious calm morning. Jim and I raced across the inlet back to the True Love and he beat me by two lengths. He’s getting so strong! After some fish tacos for lunch we lounged the afternoon away reading, sunning and floating. Jim even did some paddle board yoga! Then we headed out on the tender to try again to get a glimpse of an eaglet in the Eagles Nest. And this time . . . . . success! Then we played a bit in the outer edges of Malibu Rapids trying to capture a video of the churning water and whirlpools. We also got some more photos of a wood duck and her 10 chicks. Tonight the hummingbird came around the feeder during our yummy steak dinner and we caught it on video. Tomorrow afternoon we plan to raise anchor and leave with the slack tide at the rapids around 2PM, then anchor at the head of Jarvis Inlet in preparation for a dawn exit the next day to get a power assist from the big ebb tide. Tomorrow is also our 41st Anniversary. We are so lucky to have found each other in this time and space.

It’s impossible to truly explain PLI and our perfect anchorage. We try with our words and our pictures. It’s like immersing yourselves in the most special nature painting and then adding sound and smells. Jayne said she felt like she was in Rivendale (the magical City of the Elves from the Lord of the Rings movie). That’s a pretty good explanation.

This blog is lovingly written by the Captain and the First Mate of the True Love.

Anniversary Orcas In Jervis

We left the calm protection of PLI behind. Said goodbye to the eagles, the eaglet and the waterfalls and entered Jervis Inlet to a big change of the weather and a strong south wind.

That was ok because we were planning to spend the night at an anchorage we used in 2016 or at the very head of the inlet where we anchored in 2014. The first mate was pushing for the 2016 anchorage and the Captain was thinking the head of the inlet would be the most protection from the wind. On our way to the head of the inlet we heard a communication over the VHF that there were orcas in Jervis inlet heading towards another boat closer to the 2016 anchorage. That decided it!

Here’s a picture of another massive waterfall with a giant rooster tail.

So we turned around and headed towards the orcas to meet up with them very close to the entrance to PLI. We think they are the same orca family we saw at the West Coast Wilderness Lodge. Four of them in all. A mom, probably a grandma, a young baby and a toddler. We were able to capture some decent pictures and a little video.

We feel very very lucky. In our 12 years of boating we have never seen orcas in Jervis Inlet. We’ve heard they come up here, but we have never seen them ourselves.

It’s a misty grey morning (as expected), calm winds and a big tide pushing us out of the inlet. When we get to Egmont the tide shifts to push us north to Powell river where we will stop and reprovision. Now we are preparing ourselves mentally to enter reality again. I’m really looking forward to completing Season 1 of the Curve Podcast and talking to the kids and family. But the news and the other negative energy, I can do without. That is part of life though, of course. We are up for it all, recharged and refreshed.

We docked last night near Powell River at the Beach Garden’s Marina. After walking to the near by Pacific Point Market with our wagon, we took a taxi into town for dinner. After dinner we decided to walk back the 3 miles and discovered a delightful seaside trail. And go figure, we encountered a young bear swimming and frolicking on and near the trail. Locals said “that is just so Powell River.” We waited for the bear to leave the path and continued back to the boat.